When I was in New York recently, on a local friend’s advice, I made a beeline to Fung Tu, Jonathan Wu’s wildly creative and idiosyncratic restaurant on the border of the Lower East Side and Chinatown. An alumnus of Per Se, Wu is putting his stamp on American-Chinese cuisine, recreating and modernizing the traditional dishes he remembers from his grandparents’ kitchen and using innovative concepts to elevate familiar dishes. He takes things one step further with an outstanding wine, beer and cocktail list crafted to fit his menu.