Goan food, which is usually quite spicy, often contains some vinegar in the marinade to balance the fiery heat. Pairing it with cucumbers and limes help mellow out the flavour. Spicy lime pickles are available at South Asian grocers as well as many supermarkets. For a sweeter taste, you could substitute mango chutney.
Servings: Four

INGREDIENTS

Goan marinade:

• 1 tablespoon white vinegar
• 1 tablespoon grated ginger
• 1 tablespoon chopped garlic
• 1 tablespoon Indian curry paste
• 2 tablespoons vegetable oil
• 4, 6 to 8 ounce (175 to 250 grams) salmon fillets, on the skin

Sauce:

• 1/4 cup lime pickles
• 1/4 cup Greek-style yogurt

Garnish:

• Sliced cucumber
• Sliced limes
• Sliced onions
• Mint sprigs

METHOD

Combine vinegar, ginger, garlic, curry paste and oil. Pour over salmon and let marinate for 15 minutes.

Combine lime pickles and yogurt. Reserve until needed.

Heat grill to high. Place salmon skin-side down on grill, close cover and grill for 5 minutes. Open grill and turn fish to get a cross-hatch grill mark. Grill 2 minutes. Turn over and grill for 1 more minute or until grill marks form and the fish is slightly pink in centre.

Line a platter with cucumber, limes and onions. Place salmon on top. Garnish with fresh mint sprigs and serve with the lime pickle sauce.

WINE PAIRINGS

Wheat beers were made for summer. Whether based on the Belgian “witbier” style (flavoured with citrus and spices) or on the German “weissbier” formula (often imbued with notes of banana and clove, thanks to a special strain of yeast used in fermentation), they sing in the sunshine. They also make a splendidly cool counterpoint to the spicy, herb-and-citrus-infused preparations here. If you’re averse to beer, try a dry or off-dry riesling, preferably from Alsace. Its bold fruit will tame the heat while the vigorous acidity dances with the zingy sauces and delicate seafood. - Beppi Crosariol