During a recent weekend in Paris, my husband and I sought out restaurants that were very fine but not Michelin starred. We wanted to go to bistros that were chef-owned and where the food was prepared with love and skill. The cutting-edge trend that I noticed was the return to simple homey dishes, full flavoured and rich but with reduced sauces, not cream. I also discovered a new lettuce I had not seen before called sucre, which looks a little like a mini romaine. It appeared as garnishes in two out of the three places we visited.

We ate at several excellent restaurants including Le Comptoir, which I have already written about. Since then Chef Yves Camdeborde has become a star and it is impossible to get a reservation. You must phone on the day you want to go after 4 p.m. and if there is space you may get it.

Another delightful restaurant with lots of buzz is Mon Vieil Ami, the brainchild of 3-star Strasbourg chef Anton Westermann whose protégé runs this intimate room. It is very chic, with lots of photographers and models among the clientele, and food that is rich and lusty, often served in oval cocottes, which are dishes used for both cooking and serving.

Another winner is Gaya Rive Gauche. Three-star chef Pierre Gagnaire has opened a casual fish restaurant where simple but sensational preparations leave you wishing for more. It recently acquired one star in the new Michelin for 2007.