David Chang is the talented chef/owner of the hugely popular noodle house Momofuku (163 First Ave.) in New York's East Village. I hesitate to call this a fusion noodle house although there are elements in the dishes of other cultures, as well as some very American ones. The restaurant is more a testament to Chang's background, training, passion and talent, a place where he can showcase his style of market-driven looking rather than sticking to a fusion label.

Although he has worked in ramen houses in Tokyo, most of his training has taken place in the United States.

Chang honed his skills under star chef Tom Colicchio at the trendy Craft restaurant. His American experience surfaces in his treatment of braised collard greens, which are featured in the restaurant's signature soup, and in the crisply fried sweetbreads, which is one of those dishes, like French fries, that you can't stop eating.

Chang's pork buns are famous because he uses his own braised Berkshire pork and a bun that is light, not gluey. The restaurant is small; you sit at the counter and there are always line ups.

The most popular soup on the menu is the Momofuku ramen (check recipe section for our take on his dish). Chang recently opened Momofuku Ssam (wrapped food) Bar at 207 Second Ave. to rave reviews. It serves an Asian tapas-style menu with a variety of unusual dishes that are the product of a fertile and talented mind.