Wild leeks are a magical green because the fragile little bulbs are packed with so much flavour. You can eat them raw or cooked and they are delightful with chicken or fish. They sprout under maple trees - I have tried to grow them in our garden, but with little success. They self-seed, so you should pick judiciously because once you pull them, they don't return. I picked too many last year and now have none left!

If you cannot find wild leeks, substitute 2 ounces (60 grams) thinly slivered regular leeks, white and light green part only.

4 ounces (125 grams) goat cheese

3 tablespoons whipping cream

¼ teaspoon grated lemon rind

¼ cup grated Parmesan

¼ cup chopped pistachio nuts

Salt and freshly ground pepper

3 sheets phyllo pastry

¼ cup melted butter

2 bunches wild leeks, trimmed and cut in half

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Preheat oven to 400 F.

Combine goat cheese, whipping cream, lemon rind, Parmesan and pistachio nuts in a bowl. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Reserve.

Cover leaves of phyllo with a slightly damp dish towel. Place first sheet on a flat surface and brush with melted butter. Place second sheet on top, butter and top with remaining sheet of phyllo. Cut phyllo stack into two 8-x-12-inch pieces.

Spread half of goat cheese mixture onto the bottom third of each phyllo stack, leaving a 1-inch border around the sides and bottom edge. Lay leeks across goat cheese. Roll over once to hide leeks, butter exposed phyllos, fold in ends and continue to roll.

Place strudel seam side down on a buttered baking sheet and brush with butter. Repeat with remaining phyllo stack and filling. Use a sharp knife to cut 3 long evenly spaced slits on the diagonal across the top of each strudel.

Bake for 15 minutes or until phyllo is browned. Using the slits as a guide, cut each strudel into 4 pieces. Serve with the herb salad. Serves 4 to 8, depending on appetite.

HERB SALAD

Local baby lettuces are perfect for this simple spring salad, but for ease add some to the packaged mixed herb salad that is available in produce sections. Toss in fresh tarragon, chervil and basil for a flavour hit.

4 cups mixed lettuce and herbs

1 tablespoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons olive oil

Place salad greens in a large bowl. Whisk together lemon juice and olive oil in a separate bowl to make dressing.

Toss greens with dressing, season with salt and pepper and serve with strudel. Serves 4.