Ontario native Robert Bartley worked with some of our finest chefs, including Susur Lee and Chris McDonald before arriving at the Four Seasons.

Bartley's classic chowder recipe includes a twist: he lightly smokes the salmon before adding it to the soup.

We used double-smoked bacon instead to give a similar flavour. This soup is rich and small portions are enough.

Always be careful about salt in chowders as clams and clam juice are salty to begin with.

6 ounces double-smoked bacon, diced

1 white onion, peeled and diced (½ inch)

1 leek, white part only, washed and diced (½ inch)

1 cup minced shallots

1 tablespoon minced garlic

1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh thyme

1 bay leaf

2 cups clam juice

2 cups whipping cream

8 ounces fresh wild or organic skinless salmon fillet cut into 1-inch chunks

1 sprig fresh rosemary

Salt and white pepper to taste

3 tablespoons minced chives

Place bacon in a medium-sized stock pot and sauté over medium heat for about 4 minutes or until bacon is slightly crisp.

Remove bacon from pan and discard all but 1 tablespoon of fat. Reserve bacon. Add onions, leeks, shallots and garlic and cook over medium-low heat for 3 minutes until softened. Add thyme, bay leaf, clam juice and bring to boil. Add cream and bring to a simmer.

Lower heat, add salmon, reserved bacon and rosemary and simmer gently for 4 to 5 minutes or until just cooked.

Remove rosemary before serving. Adjust seasoning to taste and garnish each bowl with a heaping tablespoon of minced chives. Serves 6 to 8.

BARTLEY'S BISCUITS

These biscuits are the perfect accompaniment for Bartley's chowder.

2 cups all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

1½ teaspoons salt

½ cup cold unsalted butter, cut into cubes

¾ cup milk

1 egg, beaten

1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon water

Grated old cheddar cheese

Preheat oven to 450 F.

Sift together flour, sugar, baking powder and salt in a bowl.

Drop the butter into the middle and work it into the flour mixture using your fingers to form a coarse crumb.

Slowly add milk and egg and bring dough together into a sticky ball. Turn out onto a well-floured work surface and gently push dough out with your hands to form a rectangle about 2 inches thick.

Use a 2-inch round cutter to cut out circles, re-rolling scraps until you have 10 biscuits.

Arrange on a greased baking tray, allowing biscuits to touch so that they will stay moist. Brush tops with egg wash and sprinkle with cheddar. Bake for 15 minutes or until golden.

Serve warm or at room temperature. Makes 10 biscuits.