The definitive onion rings. Depending on your taste, the onion slices can be thick or thin. Soaking them in the buttermilk for 15 minutes removes some of the onion's sharpness, but omit this step if you don't have time.

2 Spanish or Vidalia onions

1 cup buttermilk

1 teaspoon chili powder

Pinch cayenne

Vegetable oil for frying

1 cup all-purpose flour

Salt and freshly ground pepper

Slice onion into ¼-inch thick rounds. Separate into rings. Place buttermilk in dish and add chili and cayenne. Add onion rings and soak for 15 minutes.

Heat 1-inch vegetable oil in skillet or wok on medium-high heat. Place flour, salt and pepper in plastic bag. Add rings and shake well.

When a cube of bread turns brown in 15 seconds, add rings to oil a few at a time and fry until golden and crisp, about 1 to 2 minutes.

Drain on paper towels, salt and serve immediately. Or prepare in advance, and reheat on a baking sheet in 400 F oven for 5 to 7 minutes. Serves 4 to 6.