This was my favourite dish at Lalot (which has now closed) and although I begged the chef for the recipe he would not give it to me. I have improvised here and I think the results are delicious. Serve it with steamed rice and stir-fried green beans. Claypots are a traditional Vietnamese cooking vessel but they are difficult to find here. Use any heavy pot instead. Many Vietnamese dishes start with a caramel base which you can buy. I have it made part of the recipe.

1/2 pound (250 grams) catfish, cut on bias into 2-inch pieces

Freshly ground black pepper

1/4 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup water

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

2 teaspoons chopped garlic

2 tablespoons fish sauce

1 dried red chili

2 green onions, cut in 2-inch lengths

4 coriander sprigs

Season catfish with pepper and reserve. Add sugar and ¼ cup water to heavy pot over medium heat. Heat slowly until it begins to caramelize, about 5 minutes. When caramel is a medium-brown colour, carefully stir in remaining ¼ cup water and cook for 2 minutes longer or until sauce is thickened. Stir in oil, garlic, fish sauce and chili.

Add catfish pieces, turning to coat in sauce. Cover pan, turn heat to low and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Remove cover, add green onions and simmer for another 5 minutes or until catfish fillets are cooked through and sauce is syrupy. Garnish with coriander. Serves 2 on its own, 3 as part of a Vietnamese meal.