Because I do not relish cooking live lobster, I usually have Toronto's City Fish Market (2929 Dufferin St.) cook them for me, but any fishmonger will do it. I ask them to cook the lobster for 10 minutes, not the usual 12, as they continue to cook as they cool. Then I ask them to crack them. Freeze the shells to make lobster bisque at another time. You could also cook a frozen, defrosted lobster tail for this, but they are not quite as tender.

1 625-gram (11/4-pound) cooked lobster per person

2 tablespoons butter per lobster

1 sprig tarragon per lobster

Remove lobster meat from the tail and claws. Place in a sealable plastic bag with 2 tablespoons butter and a sprig of tarragon. Seal tightly, squeezing out the air. Set aside until ready to reheat while you make the purée and the relish.

Reheat lobster packages in simmering water 1 to 3 minutes or until warm. Unseal and sprinkle lobster with sea salt. Spoon a little warmed Cauliflower Purée (recipe follows) onto each plate, some sautéed winter greens of your choice (spinach, Swiss chard, shaved fennel). Place the lobster meat on top and spoon the Meyer Lemon Relish (recipe follows) around.

Cauliflower Purée

This recipe makes about 3 cups, and leftovers can easily be turned into soup by adding a little chicken stock.

2 tablespoons butter

½ cup thinly sliced onion

2 or 3 sprigs thyme

1 small head of cauliflower, core removed and roughly chopped

¼ cup water

¾ cup whipping cream

Salt to taste

Place the butter, sliced onions and thyme sprigs in a pot and cook over low heat until onions are wilted, soft and fragrant, about 3 minutes. Add cauliflower, water and cream. Bring to a boil, reduce heat and cover. Cook until cauliflower is very soft, about 15 to 20 minutes.

Remove the thyme, then purée cauliflower in a blender with enough cooking liquid to make a velvety soft purée. Add salt to taste. If not using immediately, reheat in a pan over low heat, stirring frequently with a spatula to prevent burning (or microwave).

Meyer Lemon Relish

Meyer lemons are sweeter than regular lemons and have a thinner skin that has no bitterness. If they are not available, use regular lemon and blanch the slices in boiling water for 3 minutes, drain and proceed with the recipe.

¼ cup finely diced shallots

1 tablespoon white-wine vinegar

Salt to taste

1 large Meyer lemon

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

1 tablespoon chopped chervil or chives

Freshly ground black pepper

Place shallots in a small bowl with the vinegar, add a little salt and leave to macerate for about 10 minutes. Cut the lemon into 8 wedges, remove any seeds and core. Cut each wedge in half again lengthwise, and then slice crosswise into thin slivers. Add to the bowl with the shallots, mix in remaining ingredients, and check seasoning. Let marinate for an hour before serving. Makes about ¾ cup.