Even authorized biographies can make headlines The shock horror here is the revelation that some of Chez Panisses's early cash infusions came via freelance pharmaceutical sales, albeit the hippy variety rather than South American cartels. The transformation from wide-eyed student arriving in France with little knowledge of food to a restaurateur who changed the way Americans view food makes for fascinating reading. Now that we have Alice's version of the life and times of Chez Panisse as well as Jeremiah Tower's rather hissier take on the matter (California Dish, $20), we probably need a third view from a neutral party for the true picture. Black and white photos. Hardcover, 380pp, $35.00

Reviewed by Jennifer Grange