Tucked into the south corner of South Australia is Coonawarra, where Cabernet is king. Yet even in Cabernet Coonawarra, the masters have found pockets of Shiraz-friendly land, adding diversity where none was expected. In October, when the vines for the 2008 vintage were just getting under way, the concern of the cognoscenti was the Melbourne Cup. To keep an equine virus at bay, the number of contestants was limited and the Aussie world was expressing concern that the Cup tradition could even die, or at least be left gasping for breath. Alas, all was well in the end, and despite the coughs, the Cup will return to its rightful place in the social calendar in October 08. Those concerned vintners of Coonawarra are household names in the homes of wine lovers around the world. The cabernets of Belnaves, Redman, Wynn's, Bowen, Majella and Hollick wines are prized items, and not always so easy to find. Even in a world where winemakers and vintners are not known for their conservatism, Coonawarra has a disproportionately high number at the other extreme.  Your scribe was joined on this venture by a motley crew of other adventurers, as may be apparent from the photo below.

Now to the wines. I was metaphorically scratching my head when I learned that most of the Coonawarra wineries produced a wide range of wines. This is despite the consuming world's financial acknowledgement that in Coonawarra, Cabernet is king. Despite finding the range quite acceptable, this still puzzles me. I can see the quality of some of the alternatives is a partial answer, as are the variations in soils and the differences in local microclimates. On the other hand, can we imagine growing Chenin Blanc in Burgundy? Despite the presence of others, in Coonawarra Cabernet (Sauvignon) is still king.

To showcase its most prized product, the vintners host a barrel auction weekend, the 2007 renewal being its 11th annual. The event draws the lovers of fine, rich Cabernet from afar, but alas, not that many of them. Visitors can fly to Mount Gambier, less than an hour away, or drive from Adelaide, about five hours. Although the accommodation is adequate, there is not yet much of it, but more is on the way. The wines, representing the best cuvees of the district are donated by the wineries and although an entire barrel (of 20 doz. bottles) can be purchased as one, most are divided in portions of five or ten cases to give everyone a chance to participate, which they do, for the benefit of local charities.

Later, the wineries themselves opened their doors to introduce us to their wines and the people that give them life. The Lynns of Majella came late to the industry, first planting grapes on their sheepscape in 1968. After selling grapes to Wynn's for many years, they started first with Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon and others followed. I was very impressed with their big, oaky, beautifully structured, minty 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon. This is my idea of what a Coonawarra Cabernet should be, and at $28, hard to beat.

Melleea (aboriginal for green pastures) is a premium Cabernet/Shiraz blend first created in 1996. The nose of the 2003 could have been Napa Cabernet, and on the palate, showing great depth, a blend of oaky spice and mint. This is an exciting wine. The 2004, is even bigger, although not as elegant. At $66, well priced for the quality.

Zema Estate, also family owned, makes wonderful, well balanced reds from traditional Coonawarra fruit. Fastidious pruning makes the grapes that make the wine. Pride of place goes to the 100% Cabernet, with the 2004 available at $22. It also produces a variety of other reds and at the top (price) end, a Family Selection Shiraz and a Family Selection Cabernet. Both are bigger and more intense than the standard bottlings, but still well balanced, and a deal at $40.

Now owned by Southcorp-Wynn's still owns some of the best vineyard land in Coonawarra and produces some of the finest and best value wines in the country. Wynn's started its Shiraz in 1953, then called Hermitage, a place in the Rhone but a brand in Australia. Among its reds, the 2006 Shiraz is showing high quality at an excellent price-it has more finesse and elegance usually seen in this selection. This is very good, particularly at $17. The 2005 Cabernet/Shiraz/Merlot is rich, but not overblown. Nicely balanced with 6 percent Merlot, this is not made to age, but will. At $18, pretty good. The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Black Label is Wynn's flagship. Approachable now but will age gracefully. This is a supple, lovely terra rossa cabernet, first appearing in 1954. Many cellars have gracefully aging examples. At $29, this is still reasonable. Wynn's is stepping out with a blend named Johnson's Block, planted in 1927, about 70% Shiraz. This wine has lots of spice on the nose, and lovely light fruit in the mouth. A very complete wine. $35.

Until now, the Wynn wines have all been under cork, but its high end wines, the 2004 Michael and the 2004 Riddoch, are both closed by Stelvin. The Michael Shiraz was first made in 1955, and is only made when the wine is of sufficient quality. Spice is everywhere, on the nose and the palate. Not overwhelming, it is medium bodied and well balanced. The structure is excellent and it is very long. $60 to $80 Somehow, the Riddoch was not made until 1982, but when it was it became the very best of Coonawarra cabernets. Blackcurrants and oak on nose. Intense fruit mask tannins that will give this wine a very long life. Outstanding. $60 to $60.

Not mentioned above, but deserving it is the Bowen Estate Shiraz. Now made by Emma Bowen, this wine competes in quality with those having much larger price tags. The 2004 has refined, earthy flavours with enticing aromas of sweet raspberries and currents. Outstanding, particularly at $24.